Per Se

My favorite restaurant in Hawaii right now is Senia. Both chef-owners are extremely talented and knowledgeable, so whenever I travel I like to ask if they have any recommendations for where to eat. But for this visit to NYC I didn’t have to ask. Both Chef Kajioka and Chef Rush of Senia worked at Per Se in NYC and often speak of their time there. This, combined with the fact that I haven’t yet had a chance to try Thomas Keller’s French Laundry, was all the reason I needed to go to Per Se.

Located in a building overlooking Columbus Circle, Per Se has a unique feel to it. The dining area has two levels that sort of cascade toward the window, allowing almost everyone to have a view of the city. Although we arrived for a pretty late reservation, the restaurant was still completely full.

Here is the tasting menu we had on February 23, 2018:

“Oyster & Pearls” - "Sabayon" of pearl tapioca, Island Creek oysters, Regiis Ova caviar

I had longed for the day when I could try this Chef Keller signature dish and I’m happy to say it did not disappoint. The briny pops of caviar, married with the oysters and the creamy sabayon, made for a delicious few bites.

Montana Lake Trout - Confit, sake cured roe, Greechie Boy Mill grills

Hokkaido Sea Urchin with a degustation of onions

Hamachi collar - Charcoal-grilled, Koshihikara rice, pickled green garlic, smoked soy, egg yolk vinaigrette

Hen Egg Custard with a ragout of black winter truffles

Both Chef Kajioka and Rush recall spending a lot of time cracking these eggs to make the perfect presentation.

Slow Roasted Ruby Beets - Sunchoke "tartare", marcona almonds, black winter truffle

Mediterranean Lubina - Morel mushrooms, brussels sprouts, pastrami cream

Hawaiian Abalone - Charcoal-grilled, cauliflower couscous, pumpkin seeds, pickled sultanas, sweet carrot emulsion

“Bread & Butter” - Pain de Seigle aux Fruits Secs, Diane St. Clair's Animal Farm Butter

Hand Cut Tagliatelle - Parmigiano-reggiano, shaved black winter truffles

Supreme De Poularde - Kandarian Farms farro, red cabbage, whole grain mustard, sauce bigarade

100 Day Dry-Aged Beef Ribeye - Saucisse fumee, quail egg, wilted spinace, romesco

Gougere with aged gruyere

Pavlova - Caramelized pineapple, pomegranate, young coconut, Fro Yo - Angel food cake, rose pate de fruit, Brooklyn Blackout - Sorrento lemon marmalade, Sicilian pistachio, Guanaja chocolate cremeux

Per Se might be one of my favorite 3-Michelin star restaurants. The food was all delicious and perfectly prepared. Moreover, service was incredible. We felt welcomed and cared for, but also given privacy and space to enjoy a romantic evening together. I enjoyed the way that dessert was presented as well, with an array of sweet treats and bites.

 

Per Se
4th Floor, Time Warner Center
10 Columbus Circle
New York, NY 10019
212.823.9335
www.thomaskeller.com/perseny